Tuesday, June 18, 2013

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The LS1016 is an updated 10" dual bevel slider with some notable improvements over the venerable LS1013 model. Makita's bevel gear drive now has intermediate reduction gears which raise the motor housing higher above the saw blade arbor than the 1013 and also reduces the saw blade speed down to 3200 rpm. Because of the higher motor location, the critical right tilt of the bevel (45 degrees) allows sawing 1 11/16" high boards an improvement over 1 1/4" for the LS1013. The left 45 bevel capacity increases also to 2 3/8". I like the addition of a double handled bevel lock lever making it easy to operate regardless of which side of the saw I am approaching this control (behind the saw) from. Most competitors seem to be stuck on using a drive belt to move the saw motor away from the arbor in order to allow dual bevel. This is my second Makita dual bevel slider and both have had excellent power and torque cutting through all hard and soft woods as well as handling lumber which occasionally has internal stresses bind on the blade (the only time that I really notice the full use of the torque available from any saw.) Makita's bevel and spur gear train delivers without any hesitation AND does that while delivering a final blade speed of 3200 rpm. The 1013 was 3700 rpm, all of the competitive saws seem to have blade speeds of 4700 up through 5200 rpm. I don't know if the higher spped is to lower the stress on the drive belt, but it definitely increases the screaming of a high speed blade both when spun up and cutting through wood. For a 10 inch this is my quietest saw yet. Also worth mention is that the soft start motor is so effective I can barely detect any recoil when it starts up yet the motor is at full speed ready to cut without causing any wait on my part. The 1013 had a passive spring loaded detent for the zero degree bevel setting, while this model has a stop pawl which is manually disengaged with a push button to swing past while moving to a right bevel. Unfortunately, this internal pawl was broken on the first of two saws delivered to me. I think this saw had taken a drop during shipment causing the internal damage. Although I preferred the older detent for speed, this system works fine for me. I might note that the 45 right and left stops are hard end stops which are adjustable with set screws. If you were really pressed to do so, you can bevel as much as 47 plus degrees either way but at a loss of the stop setting. For any flat baseboard miters as high as 4 inches or so, you could just use miters to cut for those occasional room corners that are narrower than 90 degrees however before being forced to cut on the flat instead of against the fence. As far as miters are concerned, this goes 60 degrees right which is great (I am clueless why someone might mfg a saw which goes to 57 degrees . . . ) this one also goes 52 left. Now what I wonder is why none of the manufacturers will give me the capacity to go 60 degrees left. For this saw table, it would increase the base size no more than 2 1/4" in width left of the center and probably add 2 pounds to the weight. I'd pay for the extra aluminum and also put up with the extra 2 inches in the truck and definitely make room for it in my workshop. (I'm a general contractor who builds homes as well as building fine furniture as well as custom cabinetry both in my own facility as well as onsite.) The detents for miter settings are crisp and the miter lock seems to be very tight.

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I haven't met a miter saw yet which is super effective at dust control, this one doesn't excel at this either. (When used in my shop, my miter saw table area has a back board, with a big scoop to a 4" dust system on one side and a small fan directing the spray of dust at the scoop from the opposite side.) The biggest concern so far has been the linear bearings on the upper set of sliding rails. As the first reviewer noted these bearings are very rough at the onset. I have seen that many other users have also noted this on several wood working and contracting forums (my review and writing are within a couple of weeks of this product release on the street). I am now using the second of these saws shipped to me. On the first one, the roughness of the bearings seemed to have been 90% broken in (in about a week of use) and running nearly smooth. This second replacement saw has been in use now for 4 days and is slowly getting smoother in operation. Only time will tell if it completely smooths out. It seems a bit odd that Makita could make the lower set of linear bearings silky smooth and the upper set is (or at least starts out) horrible, (maybe there are dual linear bearings for each of the lower slide rails) . As for why this is designed with two sets of rails (upper and lower) and two sets of linear bearings, I haven't fully digested. What I will note operationally is that the 1013 single set of "under" carriage rails demands a completely clear counter space behind the saw when working out in the field. This 1016 is more forgiving in a cramped job site. My other complaint is the poorly executed documentation. Illustrations are tiny and poorly labeled and do not correspond with the text well. The language is executed with the very worst combination of english second language by a non technical writer as far I can interpret. Yes I know that Makita sales have slid 15% in the current economy, but for a 300 billion yen company, how about spending a thousand dollars to have a good technical english writer do the manual! I don't expect a manual of how to do wood working but I shouldn't be puzzled about which part is being referred to to make adjustments or operate the saw. I would also like to see Makita include the side extensions. The holes for it are machined into the base, but I can't find that I can even buy them. I wouldn't mind paying a couple dollars more to have them included or at the very least they should be available for sale. There are times when the few extra inches of support are appreciated yet I can't justify bringing a full miter saw stand to the job. The quality control (other than the rough upper linear bearings) are superb. The machining of the turn table and table side wings are flat and smooth. I do miss the large turntable of the 1013 and the support it affords for wider boards, but I am suppose a smaller turntable was needed for the wider miter angle settings. The new fence is also welcome offering much higher support on both sides of the blade than the 1013 and seems to be a stouter approach than the "flip over" high close support for vertical bevels (I have had two of the flip fences on previous saws broken by sudden catches of wood while my employees have had them out in the field). The sliding upper fences are a good solution to allowing both high vertical support and clearance for bevel cuts. Also on quality control, I had come near to ordering a deep blue colored saw but had seen a reviewers note about alignment of the arbor to the sliding axis. Out of two 1016's delivered to me, the first one was out of alignment a little tiny hair (this is the one which I suspect took a drop in shipment), the second one is virtually dead on. If you make a plunge cut at the rear of the sliding travel, and make a separate second plunge cut at the front of sliding travel (do not slide the saw while in the wood but make two separate plunges) the two separate cuts should be in dead alignment. If you see an offset in the saw kerfs it means that the blade arbor is out of alignment and the blade can not slide or travel straight with the kerf and you will have binding when sliding and wavy cuts, burnt edges . . . etc. I don't think any manufacturer makes this adjustable so either it's right or it's a lemon. BTW the included ATB saw blade is superb, I had orderd a neg rake Freud to put on this saw, but I'll wait until the factory blade needs sharpening. Overall, I like this new release from Makita and expect it to serve me well I hope that the roughness of the upper linear bearings completely goes away soon.

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I've had this saw about three years and I still love it! Accurate, powerfull, and versatile come to mind. Mine doesn't have a laser but otherwise looks the same. You can't go wrong with this one, it will last a do-it-youselfer for a lifetime or two!